Fabric selection is a crucial part of fashion design and garment making. Factors like texture, weight, drape and durability all contribute to how a design comes to life.
For instance, lightweight fabrics for clothing like chiffon or georgette create a flowy, ethereal mood, while heavier options like denim or wool add structure and warmth.
And practicality matters. For example, stretch fabrics for activewear or breathable cotton for summer clothing ensure the garment’s functionality aligns with its purpose.
Digital fabric printing: a game-changer for fashion designers
Digital fabric printing technology enhances fabric selection for fashion designers by offering endless creative possibilities.
It allows designers to customise patterns, colours and motifs directly on the fabric, ensuring the fabric texture and aesthetics in fashion align with the design’s purpose.
Whether it’s creating bold, intricate prints for lightweight fabrics for draping like chiffon or subtle, textured patterns for structured woven fabrics, digital printing bridges creativity and practicality.
Not only does it add a personal touch to fabric choice, but it also reduces waste by enabling precise production. This makes it a sustainable option in modern fashion design.
Understanding the basics of fabric selection
Understanding the differences in fabric bases is the first step when selecting your fabric.
There are three main types of fabric categories. These are:
- Fabric fibre composition
- Grams per square metre (GSM)
- Fabric weaves
Fabric fibre composition
The fibre composition of a fabric determines its characteristics. This includes breathability, durability, elasticity and maintenance requirements.
Fabrics are broadly classified into three types:
Natural fibres: Natural fibres come from plant or animal sources and are known for their breathability, comfort and sustainability.
- Cotton fabric: A natural fabric for fashion design known for its breathability and softness. It is also absorbent and versatile and commonly used for casual wear, bedding and summer clothing.
- Linen fabric: Ideal for lightweight garments and warm weather garments, linen is stronger than cotton and highly breathable.
- Wool fabric: Often used for winter fashion and tailored garments, wool is naturally insulating and moisture-wicking.
- Silk fabric: Luxuriously smooth with a natural sheen, silk is often used in high-end fashion and lingerie.
Synthetic fibres: Manufactured through chemical processes, synthetic fabrics offer durability, elasticity, and moisture resistance.
- Polyester fabric: Strong, wrinkle-resistant, and quick-drying, polyester is widely used in sportswear and everyday fashion.
- Nylon fabric: Lightweight and highly durable, often used for activewear and hosiery.
- Spandex (lycra): Known for its exceptional stretch, commonly blended with other fibres to add flexibility.
- Acrylic: A wool substitute that is lightweight, warm and resistant to shrinking and mildew.
Blended fabrics: Blended fabrics combine natural and synthetic fibres and enhance the properties of both, creating a more versatile and functional textile. They offer fabric durability and wearability, making them excellent choices for everyday fashion.
- Cotton-polyester blends: These offer softness with wrinkle resistance and durability.
- Wool-synthetic blends: These fabrics provide warmth while reducing shrinkage and improving shape retention.
- Silk-viscose blends: These fabrics enhance the shape and texture of luxury garments.
Grams per Square Metre (GSM)
The fabric weight for clothing design plays a vital role in drape and insulation. Designers must consider how GSM affects fabric properties – how a fabric will drape, insulate and perform – when selecting textiles for different collections.
- Lightweight fabrics (<150 GSM): Ideal for summer collections and breathable fashion, lightweight fabrics are most suited to garments for warm climates and airy, flowy garments such as summer dresses, chiffon blouses and lightweight cotton tees. Examples: polyester chiffon (30-50 GSM), cotton voile (50-80 GSM), and lightweight cotton (100-150 GSM).
- Midweight fabrics (150-300 GSM): Suitable for structured garments and tailored clothing. Midweight fabrics strike a balance between durability and breathability. Used for shirts, structured dresses and midweight jackets. Examples: cotton poplin (150-200 GSM), 100% linen (180-250 GSM) and denim (250-300 GSM).
- Heavyweight fabrics (>300 GSM): Thick and durable, these fabrics are used in outerwear and high-durability garments such as winter coats, heavy-duty upholstery and structured outerwear. Examples: Wool Coating (350-600 GSM), Canvas (300-500 GSM), and Heavyweight Denim (400+ GSM).
Since GSM also influences fabric cost, with heavier fabrics typically requiring more raw materials and production time, designers must balance weight with the intended use to ensure functionality and cost-effectiveness.
Fabric Weaves
The weave structure of a fabric determines its strength, flexibility, drape, and texture, making it a crucial factor in fabric selection.
Understanding how different weaves function helps designers choose the correct fabric for their creative vision while ensuring durability and practicality.
Woven fabrics: Woven fabrics are created by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles – warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) – resulting in a structured and stable fabric. These fabrics hold their shape well, making them ideal for tailoring, formalwear, and structured garments.
- Plain weave: The most basic and durable weave, seen in cotton poplin, linen, and viscose—used for shirts, lightweight dresses, and casualwear.
- Twill weave: Recognised for its diagonal lines, providing strength and drape – used in denim, chino, cotton, polyester twills and suiting fabrics.
- Satin weave: Used in luxury fabrics for fashion design, this creates a smooth, lustrous surface popular in eveningwear, lingerie and luxury garments. Fabrics include polyester satin and duchess satin.
Knit fabrics: Unlike woven fabrics, knit fabrics are made by looping yarns together, resulting in stretchy, soft, and flexible textiles. This makes them perfect for comfortable, body-hugging, and movement-friendly garments such as activewear and loungewear.
- Weft knits: Common in tee shirts, leggings, and sweaters, these fabrics stretch easily and drape well. Examples include jersey, rib knit, and French terry.
- Warp knits: More stable and less likely to unravel, often used in athleisure, swimwear, and lingerie. Examples include tricot, power mesh and polyester-lycra.
- Double knits: Heavier and more structured, offering a balance between stretch and support – used in scuba, ponte and interlock fabrics for structured dresses and jackets.
With the rise of athleisure, loungewear and gender-fluid fashion, knit fabrics continue to dominate in both casual and performance wear.
Choosing between woven and knit fabrics depends on the desired fit, movement and aesthetic of the garment.
Mastering fabric selection for fashion designers: key takeaways for success
A well-balanced approach to fabric selection ensures garments are stylish, functional, and suited for their intended purpose.
Whether choosing sustainable fabrics for fashion design, structured woven textiles, or stretch fabrics for movement-friendly designs, each choice affects the final garment.
By understanding fabric fibre composition, GSM and fabric weaves, designers can make informed choices that enhance their designs and align with their creative vision.
- To further support designers in making informed choices to stand out in the fashion industry, Digital Fabric Solutions’ showrooms in Durban and Cape Town offer a large range of cotton and polyester fabric bases.
- Industry professionals are available to provide insights into our trend-centric fabric selections, helping you build collections that align with the latest fashion trends.
- Contact us for more information
